Koupepia (Stuffed Grape Leaves)

I first tried stuffed grape leaves in college and I was not a fan. Cold, stuffed with bland rice filling and possessing a completely unappealing squishiness, they were something I just couldn't get into it. True, they were store-bought and my friend adored them, but I was turned off. I tried them once or twice more after that, but each successive experience was the same as the first. I was turned off; in my mind, for good.Then Seth and I went to Cyprus this past August and I became obsessed with sampling every meze dish I came across, including, wouldn't you know, stuffed grape leaves. I was actually excited to try them because one, they were fresh and seemed a bit more authentic coming from Kakopetria as opposed to some grocery store in Virginia; and two, I know tastes change and am always willing to test mine.

Turns out that willingness is a good thing (duh, why else would I post this recipe?) but I have to give credit to the food: koupepia (little cigars) in Cyprus are stuffed with meat - not squishy, overcooked rice! - seasoned lightly with herbs, and ours were served simmered in a simple tomato sauce. There was no hint of the bland mush I was familiar with; these things were good.

Murag (Meat Stew)

I am cooking this right now and the smell wafting from the kitchen is fab-u-lous.

  . . .

Ok, finished cooking and the result is pretty good for a beef stew, though there is nothing that stands out about it. I doubled the Baharat to the 2 teaspoons I list below and included extra on the table to sprinkle on to taste. Nevertheless, as far as tender meat and green beans goodness goes, this is a winner.*

Murag
The Complete Middle East Cookbook 

3lb boneless stewing beef or lamb
1/4cup oil
2 large onions, finely chopped
2cups peeled, chopped tomatoes OR 1/4cup tomato paste
1cup water
1tsp sugar
2tsp Baharat (recipe below)
salt and pepper
One of the following: 1lb fresh green beans; 1lb okra (if using add 2 chopped cloves of garlic to onion); 2 cups shelled green peas; 1lb eggplant, cubed, salted 30 minuted and rinsed.


1. Trim meat and cut into 1 1/2inch squares. Heat half the oil in a heavy pan and brown meat over high heat, removing to a plate when browned (I had to do this in two batches.)

2. Reduce heat and add remaining oil with onion. Fry gently until transparent.

3. Add tomatoes or tomato paste, water (increase to 1 1/2 cups if using paste), sugar, baharat, and about 2 teaspoons salt and pepper to taste. Bring to the boil, reduce heat and return meat to pan. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes for lamb, 1 1/4 hours for beef.

4. Add prepared vegetable, cover and simmer for another hour or until meat is tender.

Baharat seasoning
1/3tsp black pepper
1/4tsp coriander
1/4tsp cinnamon
1/4tsp cloves
1/3tsp cumin
2tsp cardamom
1/4tsp nutmeg
1/2tsp paprika
1/4tsp dried limes (optional)

Mix and use whenever needed. Tastes great in lentil soup!

*- Sorry for not being too talkative but my brain is currently running on automatic!

Camel

I will come out and say the obvious: one of the best aspects of living abroad is the myriad chances to taste new things. I love it. Sure, many of these "things" I will never try again (salt lassi, white ants, cooked goat's blood) but some surprise me and will happily pop into my mouth any time I come across them (grasshoppers and fried pig's ears, I'm lookin' at you!) Aside from insects and internal organs, however, there is a wide range of proteins that are simply difficult to find in the States - and probably Europe, for that matter. I'm thinking of the guinea pig Anthony Bordain ate in Peru; the dog (and dog penis) that my friend Solveigh saw (but didn't try; poop) on a menu in Cambodia; and my longed-for encounter with camel.